It's Even Better Than The Brochure

By Archie Fellowes

Happy New Year from Sri Lanka. No snow here. We are in peak holiday season and the Sri Lankan sun just wants to shine. After making some final checks of Red Dot’s first pdf brochure, I’ve been checking out the Southern beaches -- and it has to be said it has been a more restful experience. They’ve hit the spot.

A short journey south-east along the coast from Galle leads you to a selection of paradise beach options. You will first come across the slightly busier cove of Unawatuna. With an underlying backpacker vibe, this is the most established party beach of the south, and has been for a while. By the evening, Kingfisher bar, and Hot Banana are fun options for those with a disposition for dancing in the moonlight.

Further along the coast towards Thalpe is Wijaya Beach. The name of this smaller stretch is adopted from the excellently-run beach Wijaya Beach Resort, which has really made a name for itself. Palm trees loom over the restuarant roof. Watch the sun fade behind the aptly-named Frog Rock, which looks out over the ocean horizon.

Christmas and New Year saw temporary tents and dance flooring set out on the beach, with patterned flags and embroidered banners draping the rafters. You could call it trendy by day, and funky by night. The Thai Green Currys, seared tuna, pizzas (from the resort's own pizza oven), and Arrack Attack cocktails come highly recommended. Hop back on the coast road heading for Matara and you will find some beautiful beachside accommodation options regularly cropping up. The Thalpe coastline now deserves the label of Sri Lanka's mini-riviera - just head to Era Beach Click Here), or The Fortress, Koggala, Click Here) and see for yourself.

Travelling further to the south-east must include at the very least a brief stop at the extra special Mirissa beach. The nearby Weligama beach stretch is your nearest small town and an alternative, equally good surfing spot at this time of year. In addition to surfing, Mirissa Waterports Click Here ) offers watersports galore, deep sea fishing and whale and dolphin watching.

There are some fantastic massage centres hidden away in the groves of the surrounding village, and no doubt an enthusiastic game of beach cricket will happen in the evening. For your dinner, cover all corners with a seafood barbeque as you sit out with sand between your toes. Options include reef shark (the author's choice as a Christmas alternative to Turkey), barracuda, butter fish, tuna fish, king prawns and calamari squid.

On the other hand, if you are looking for a slightly different eating option, search out the small Sun and Sea guesthouse near to the rocky outcrop end of Mirrissa bay. Meet the friendly couple that run the show by themselves, and order you evening's food in advance. It’s nothing smart, but the chef will not let you leave hungry and you will taste local Sri Lankan food at its most authentic.

As I think I said at the start, for variety and natural beauty, the southern beaches over Christmas hit the spot. I’m heading to India for a few months now, but I can’t wait to be back.

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Sleepy Beaches and South Coast Water Sports

By Archie Fellowes
It’s late October in Sri Lanka. I arrived from England last week expecting to spend my first month on the island seeing out the end of the monsoon – nothing of the sort! The weather has been glorious.

I am sharing a flat in Colombo whilst working for a few months for Red Dot, but I took the chance to head south on my first weekend back here after 2 years away. I took something of a quick beach tour from my weekend base in Galle’s beautiful fort – consisting of Mirissa, a few drinks and a game of beach football at Talpe, and Bentota. 

First, I moseyed down to Sri Lanka’s Deep South and to Mirissa beach; sleepy by reputation, and very sleepy upon my arrival. See www.mirissa.com for a look at the beach – although remember that Red Dot Tours has the best accommodation advice! I know that October is still low season, but where is everyone? I found myself standing, bathed in sunshine and vivid blue skies, on a quiet, cracking little paradise beach. ‘Lucky me’ I thought, but isn’t this what the holiday-goer classically craves?

A couple of owners of beach properties said they don’t intend to fully open up until November is well underway, but my advice is don’t be afraid to beat the rush and get yourself over here from early November onwards. The sea was still easily hospitable enough for a decent dip thank you very much...

Just short of the island’s most south town of Matara, I went to along to check out Mirissa Water Sports www.mirissawatersports.com who, having benefitted from the Tsunami Aid development programme, run good sailing, fishing, and dolphin and whale watching from the harbour. Red Dot is updating its risk assessment, so I have been armed with forms and asking lots of questions.

Sunday’s route back up to Colombo from Galle saw me and friends stop more or less halfway at Bentota - the famous water-sports heart of Sri Lanka. I learn that surprisingly, although Bentota is one of the island’s more popular resorts, the vast, sandy beach is relatively quiet and it is an excellent diving location. The beach can be divided into two, the north end comprising a spit of land – dubbed “Paradise Island” - dividing the waves of the Indian Ocean from the still waters of the Bentota Lagoon. 

We took a left off the Galle Road (heading north) and dropped in on Sunshine Water Sports, off the Ganga River. From here, you can get fully stuck in to array of water sports options: water skiing, wakeboarding, knee boarding, jet skiing, and banana boating. Or, something more relaxing might take your fancy – go deep-sea fishing or take a boat safari down the river to view the coast. If you are looking to stay, head towards the more pleasing southern end of the sandy beach where you’ll find some of the island’s best upmarket hotels, restaurants and watering holes. Bentota is worth it.

Now I have to work out what’s next on the agenda. Next weekend could either be all green dungarees and handle-bar moustaches for Colombo’s very own Bavarian beer festival – Oktoberfest --or perhaps I need to get out of the city and sit on a beach... why not Hikkaduwa? ... Happy days.

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